A Simple DIY Floating Nightstand with Basket Drawer

If you’re looking for a low-cost option for bedside storage, this simple DIY floating nightstand is for you.

Minimalist and streamlined, this floating nightstand is wall-mounted, so it doesn’t take up floor space. The built-in basket provides storage while keeping things looking clean and uncluttered. Best of all, it can be made almost entirely from off-cuts, making it super budget-friendly!

Creating things from leftover materials is one of the low-key best parts of DIY! That’s why I designed this piece for my son’s bedroom, making it from wood offcuts I already had on hand. I selected the dimensions to hold a wicker basket, creating a practical solution for keeping bedtime essentials tidy.

If you’re interested in this space-saving, low-cost nightstand, follow along to learn how to make your own.

Designing a piece of furniture yourself allows you to customize the size to the space you’re working with. You can also customize the size of the piece based on the materials you have available. In my case, I designed the dimensions based on this wicker basket.

This DIY floating nightstand is essentially a basic wooden box that holds a rectangular wicker basket that serves as a pull-out drawer. The back side of the box provides an easy way to mount it to the wall like a floating shelf. Here are the dimensions I went with. 

Find Your Wall Studs Before You Build

Before you finalize the dimensions of your DIY floating nightstand, it is a good idea to figure out how you will be mounting it.

If you will be attaching it to a wood-framed wall, ensure at least two screws will fasten into a wall stud when you mount it. Wall anchors alone are not recommended for something that people have a tendency to lean on (like nightstands and bedside tables!).

If you locate a wall stud and find your nightstand dimensions fall just short of where the stud is, there is still time to change your design. In this case, you could make your unit just a little bit wider so that at least one end is secured to a stud.

To locate a wall stud, one easy way to do this is by using a strong magnet. The magnet picks up on the metal screws, holding the drywall to the stud, indicating where your studs are. To learn more about this, you can read my post on finding a wall stud using a magnet — for drywall or plaster walls.

Selecting Your Materials

The simplicity and minimal scale of this piece make it the perfect project to use wood off cuts if you have them. In total I used only about 35 linear inches of scrap wood I had leftover from a shelving project.

Quality hardwood always tends to be the best choice for furniture builds, however, I actually went with leftover melamine board. While I was happy with the end result, MDF is not always ideal to work with. The melamine coating has a tendency to chip and leaves an unfinished edge when it is cut. I ended up covering this edge with oak veneer iron-on edging, but you can also use edging tape intended for melamine/ MDF board.

Basket Drawer

There are unlimited options when it comes to what you can use as a drawer for your DIY floating nightstand. From wicker baskets to cloth or canvas baskets, the options are endless. You could even build a second box to sit inside or leave it empty and place books or a plant inside instead.

If you are deciding to go to with a basket insert, here are some good options:

*Some of the links provided may be affiliate links. This means that I might make a small commission from a sale, at no additional cost to you.

Materials List

• A rectangular basket
• wood offcuts (hardwood works best)
• Wood glue 
• Sandpaper 
• Small screws (ie ¾”)
• Mounting screws (1-½”)
• Wood edge trim (if covering a  melamine or mdf edge) 
• Wall anchors (if wall studs are unavailable)

Tools List

• Miter saw 
• Table saw
• Drill bit 
• Power drill 
• Power screwdriver 
• Small level 
• Strong magnet (or reliable stud finder) 
• countersinking drill bit (optional) 
• Iron (if using it iron-on edge trim)

Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Measure & Cut

To cut miters for a box, first determine the outer dimensions and mark your cut lines on the wood. Set your miter saw to 45°, position the board with the cut line aligned to the blade’s edge, and hold it firmly against the fence. Lower the blade to check alignment, then turn on the saw and make a smooth cut through the wood.

Next, measure from the longest edge of your first cut to the desired length and mark the opposite end. Flip or the board so the second cut mirrors the first. Align the mark with the blade, hold the board steady, and make the cut.

Repeat the process for the remaining box sides, ensuring each pair of opposite sides is the exact same length. Dry-fit the pieces before assembly to check for tight joints.

Safety Tip: If you find you need to trim a piece to make it more exact, it is always safter to cut a new piece from a longer length than it is to trim what you have already cut. Because some of the pieces of the box are not very long (the sides of my table were less than 6″ in height), trimming a piece means that your fingers will need to be too close to the blade of the saw. Combined with the angled saw blade, which you might not be as used to, this can be dangerous. Do your fingers a favor and don’t risk it; just cut new piece from a longer piece of wood.

Step 2: Assemble the Frame

To glue up mitered corners of the box, start by dry-fitting all four sides to ensure tight joints. Lay the pieces side by side, inside face down, aligning the mitered edges. Apply long strips of masking tape across the seams. Flip the assembly over so the inside faces up, and apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to each mitered edge.

Carefully fold the sides together to form the box, ensuring the corners align perfectly. The tape acts as a hinge, holding the pieces in place as you bring them together. Apply additional tape across the corners to secure them tightly, ensuring no gaps remain. Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth before it dries.

Let the glue dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually at least an hour, but ideally longer for full strength. Once dry, remove the tape carefully and inspect the joints. If necessary, sand the corners lightly to remove any glue squeeze-out and smooth the edges.

Step 4: Add the Back Panel

To create the back panel that secures the shelf to the wall, measure the width and height of your framed box and cut a piece of sturdy plywood or solid wood to match. Make sure it fits flush with the back edges of the frame so the shelf sits evenly against the wall. Use wood glue and screws to attach the back panel to the frame.

Step 5: Reinforcing the Joints

In addition to wood glue, it is good to use an additional fastener to reinforce the joints of the box. I used 1″ screws to secure the back panel, as well as the mitered edges. However, I used screws sparingly, only where needed on the sides and on the bottom of the box, leaving the top of the table clear.

To prevent splitting, I pre-drilling each hole for the screws using a 3/16″ drill bit, being sure to position the hole so that it wouldn’t accidently drive through to the other side.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

If you’re using MDF or melamine and want a more polished look, apply veneer edging to the exposed edges of the shelf. Cut a strip of iron-on veneer slightly longer than the edge you’re covering, then press it into place with a hot household iron, working slowly to activate the adhesive and ensure a secure bond.

Let the veneer overhang slightly at the ends and corners—once it’s fully cooled, use a sharp razor blade or utility knife to carefully trim the excess. For clean mitered corners, overlap the veneer strips and cut through both layers at a 45-degree angle so they fit together seamlessly. Then press with the iron to set the adhesive. Lightly sand the edges for a smooth, finished look.

If you built your DIY floating nightstand from hardwood, now’s the time to bring out the natural beauty of the wood with a stain and protective finish. Start by lightly sanding all surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots and open up the wood grain. Wipe away the dust with a tack cloth, then apply your chosen stain with a clean rag or brush, working in the direction of the grain. Let the stain sit for a few minutes before wiping off the excess, and allow it to dry fully according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once dry, seal the wood with two to three coats of a clear polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats for a smooth, durable finish.

Step 5: Mounting the Shelf on the Wall

To mount the DIY floating nightstand securely, start by locating a stud in the wall—an easy trick is to use a small magnet and move it slowly across the wall until it sticks to a screw or nail beneath the surface, which usually means you’ve found a stud. If you’re mounting into drywall and can hit a stud, drill pilot holes through the back of the shelf and drive wood screws directly into the stud for a strong hold.

For brick or concrete walls, use a masonry bit to drill into the wall, insert wall anchors or concrete screws, and fasten the shelf in place. Make sure the shelf is level before tightening the screws fully. If you’re not hitting a stud, heavy-duty wall anchors rated for the weight of your shelf and what you plan to store are a good alternative.

Final Thoughts

This little floating nightstand turned out to be the perfect addition to my son’s bedroom—simple, sturdy, and just the right size for a bedside basket and a few bedtime essentials. It’s a great project for using up leftover wood and customizing to fit your space. Whether you’re building one for a kid’s room, a small apartment, or a tight corner, it’s a practical and satisfying DIY that doesn’t take much time or money. I hope this tutorial helps you create something just as useful and personal for your own home!